Something that I really love about the Japanese is their appreciation and wholehearted embracing of everything impermanent and seasonal. They love the idea that something is with us for a few short weeks and then disappears again for another year; there’d be no demand here for Creme Eggs in September. For them, seasonality underlines the… Continue reading What I’ve learnt in Japan …
Category: Japan
Kyoto without the crowds
If there’s one covid silver lining for me, it’s the lack of tourists in Kyoto. Kyoto’s one of my top three favourite cities in the world, and I couldn’t wait to get back once I’d arrived in Nagoya. So, with a good weather forecast last weekend, I set off, determined to see some of the… Continue reading Kyoto without the crowds
What’s going on in Aichi?
Aichi, home of Toyota and miso sauce, is normally a rather staid and sensible place; it’s emphatically not Tokyo – no maid cafes or love hotels here, thank you very much. But recently there have been some strange goings on. The national English language newspaper printed the following disturbing story This bizarre-sounding crime is actually… Continue reading What’s going on in Aichi?
Japan: a walk in the park
I love a walk in the park in Japan … you never know what you’re going to see around the next bend in the path … … perhaps a couple taking their ferret out for a stroll? Having spent a year walking round the local park in Bedford, I can faithfully report that all I… Continue reading Japan: a walk in the park
A potential change of career
Kanazawa is a wonderful little town on the west side of Honshu. It’s wonderful for a number of reasons: firstly, it was the seat of an important feudal clan and so has many big houses, temples and shrines, secondly, it escaped bombing during the Second World War, and thirdly, it has one of the top-ranked… Continue reading A potential change of career
My first experience of sumo
It was most definitely serendipity times two; firstly to discover that one of the six annual sumo tournaments in Japan is held in Nagoya, and secondly to find that it would take place during my stay. I felt that there must be a ticket with my name on it – but just to make sure,… Continue reading My first experience of sumo
University life in Japan
Before I arrived, I wasn’t sure how I would feel about teaching in a women’s university. How archaic, I thought, to have such institutions in the 21st Century in a first world country. But now that I’ve experienced just how much of a man’s world it is in Japan, and how women are supposed to… Continue reading University life in Japan
Nara – too much venison walking around uncooked
Nara was once the capital of Japan. In 710 AD it became the country’s first permanent capital city, losing the title to Kyoto 75 years later, due to the corruption of the Nara clergy … plus ça change, as we French speakers say. As it’s a city that’s so steeped in history and culture, I… Continue reading Nara – too much venison walking around uncooked
Osaka – home of the pot noodle
Osaka is famous for being the foodie capital of Japan, so I was surprised to learn that it is also the home of the pot noodle. It was a bit like discovering that Angel Delight is a popular dessert at the Dorchester, or that Raymond Blanc invented the turkey twizzler. Anway, once I knew that… Continue reading Osaka – home of the pot noodle
The Ginger Ninja
I’ve had quite a cultural weekend, one way and another. I went to Kyoto because I had a ticket to see a kabuki play at the Minamiza theatre, which is the home of kabuki. It’s a wonderful old building, which has been hosting kabuki performances for 400 years – – and I was pleased to… Continue reading The Ginger Ninja
Bears and eel chips
Shogun Ieyasu was a canny chap. When he became Shogun in 1603 he forced all the great lords to spend every second year with him in Edo, or Tokyo as it is now. This meant that they spent huge amounts of time and money travelling with their vast retinues along the road between Kyoto and… Continue reading Bears and eel chips
A series of unfortunate events …
There’s a very strict code of conduct associated with being Japanese; they’re the greatest rule followers I’ve ever known. But unless you’ve grown up with these rules, it can be very difficult to a) remember them, or b) notice them in the first place. But I suppose that the good thing about being a foreigner… Continue reading A series of unfortunate events …
Investigating the Nagoya food scene
Every country has its own love-it-or-hate-it foodstuff. In England it’s Marmite, in Malaysia it’s Durian, and in Japan the polarizing comestible is called natto. It’s made from fermented soya beans and, according to Wikipedia, ‘is an acquired taste because of its powerful smell, strong flavor and slimy, sticky texture.’ After coping with the smell of… Continue reading Investigating the Nagoya food scene
The philistine’s guide to Japanese culture
I’ve now done some reading up on Japanese culture and history, so I feel slightly less ignorant than I did a few weeks ago, when I went to the National Musuem. Ooh! It’s Morecambe and Wise, I thought – I now know that they are, in fact, 6th Century tomb figurines. And what I initially… Continue reading The philistine’s guide to Japanese culture
Tokyo food tours
I’ve come to appreciate, during my travels, that signing up for a food tour in a new place pays back dividends. The guide takes you to all sorts of wonderful hidden-away spots, explains the whole food scene and generally equips you with enough know-how to go solo afterwards. So when I got to Tokyo I… Continue reading Tokyo food tours
The dawn of a new era
The new Emperor of Japan ascended the Chrysanthemum Throne today which signalled the first day of a new era. Whilst they do use the year 2019, they also use their own system based on the number of years the Emperor has been on the throne. When I got my ID card, I was surprised to… Continue reading The dawn of a new era
The obedience of rain
In Japan, if the weather forecast says it’s going to rain, then it rains, and if the forecast says it won’t rain, then it doesn’t. Having spent time in both Norfolk and Malaysia, where it rains if it feels like it, and nobody has any idea what the weather will be like in five… Continue reading The obedience of rain
My new favourite city – Kyoto
I’ve had three weekends in Japan so far, and have chosen to spend two of them in Kyoto; I absolutely adore it there. Everything is exquisite – the temples, the gardens, the little streets with wooden houses, the little waterways lined with cherry trees, the tiny craft studios and cafes – it has to be… Continue reading My new favourite city – Kyoto
Kyoto – getting naked with the natives
I decided to hop on a bullet train and spend my first weekend in Japan in Kyoto. It’s about 90 miles away, but as the train gets up to 175 mph, the journey only takes 35 minutes and there’s a train every ten minutes or so – what an amazing service! It’s fairly expensive –… Continue reading Kyoto – getting naked with the natives
Yay! It’s Cherry blossom time!
I arrived in Japan on Tuesday, and I have to say that it’s a lot more foreign than Malaysia. On the bullet train from Tokyo to Nagoya I felt just like Harry Potter on the Hogwart’s Express when the trolley lady arrived with the refreshment trolley; I had absolutely no idea what anything was, and… Continue reading Yay! It’s Cherry blossom time!